The Wanderer'Soul Series 2011- EpisodeTadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve

The Wanderers Soul – Episode 1, 2011

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve

Day 1, Tuesday. 22^nd Feb, 2011.

   2:00pm, the cold February morning turned screeching hot and humid just like any other day at this given time of the bustling city; Mumbai. Five wanderer souls; Ritesh Kadam, Junaid Ali, Lakshmikant Patil, Gwendy Luicien and Vishal Gupta rendezvoused after their respective incessant shifts on the fifth floor of the dark gleaming brown glassed edifice of Paradigm-A located in Mindspace.

   Junaid and I emerged out of the clatter amidst the social animals whilst in their materialistic transactions into the quietude of the reception kiosk. Ritesh, Lakshmikant and Gwendy appeared to be resting on the black satiny couches.

   A bright smile illuminated on all our five faces.

   Ritesh and I, the two of us being the only ones threaded in detachable three fourths seated down on the black satiny couch removing our thick solid trekking boots. We zipped the fabric around our knees letting it tumble down to our feet as staff and personnel’s strode across the reception kiosk, lifts and stairs staring at the five of us with our braggart orotund large back packs, cameras, equipment’s/gears whilst two grown men semi-bared their legs.

   All of them wondering just one thought. Who the hell goes for an outing on a Tuesday?!

   The five of us clothed in our t-shirts, cargos/three-fourths, glares and trekking boots mounted our backpacks on our backs and cameras across our necks and stepped into the silver platinum lit elevator cramping it with our bulk and enormous oblong luggage leaving no room for further accommodation to the ground floor.

   Descending five storey’s down the brown glassed structure we broke into the cacophony of the buzzing and awaiting crowd whilst many of them puffed on nicotine under the piercing heat. After nearly ten minutes of pursuing the three wheeled carts we managed to acquire two rickshaws that were willing to escort us to Malad station.    

  Approximately after twenty minutes of being strangled and shuffling amidst the traffic we reached the compact and constricted station.

  Half an hour later we found ourselves in Dadar with ample of time to spare at our disposal. Hence, we decided to have a light and quick breakfast.

  Our luggage rested down on the moderately clamped grey somber platform. We awaited the train standing and sitting sipping at chilled bottled water to flush down the south Indian fast food masala. Indulging in causal talks and jokes, fluttering around mocking at the amusingly comical intonation of the female operator announcing the timings and trains.  

  An image of the blue Sevagram train finally beamed dilating on the horizon of the rail tracks. We got to our feet mounting our backpacks as the train taxied and halted on the platform.

    

Day 2, Wednesday. 23^rd Feb, 2011.

   5:00pm, the train had halted at Wardha station for nearly two hours now and would for another two hours to get the process of changing the engines.

   I woke up to see Lakshmikant awake, the two of us stepped out the bogie onto the platform and beyond with our cameras sipping at hot sugary tea. Clicking away images of stray dogs, the shy moon, rails and various objects in the bluish-black light. Soon we were accompanied by a drowsy Junaid followed by Ritesh.

   The sun appeared to be anticipating its rise. A dark orange tinge sprayed twinging the dark blue and black contrast. Junaid got his DSLR out to capture the rising sun in all its possible emitting shades.

   10:30pm, the train screeched and taxied on its rails. Chandrapur had arrived.

We stepped out into the moderate morning warm temperature aware of the potential of the heat waves of this city jumping to the extremes.

   A white van escorted us from the station to the inner city.

   After a slow lazy south Indian meal in a Rajasthani restaurant we convoyed through the small underdeveloped city of Chadrapur. An array of small shops railed by behind in less ten minutes leaving the small local hub behind to encounter a few rope ways of yellow steel convoys transporting coal and fuel to the thermal power station. Two white giant flask like factory chimneys expectorated massive clouds of smoke polluting and severing the progressed afternoon blistering temperatures.

    The black smoke and charcoal dust compelled us to slid and wheel the windows shut. Speeding through the pollution we halted the van abruptly at the sight of giant meteor shaped concave shells occupied and engaged in mining.

Taking in the panorama of the vivid expanse and indulging in brief photography we filled in the van again resuming our ride.

   Passing by the thermal power station and coal mines we entered the Tadoba Andhari district security gates. Passing that we drove on for nearly thirty minutes on the parallel and momentarily curving elongated incessant grey tar dusty roads sandwiched by dense trees and bushes on both sides for kilometers.

   A kilometer away from the Moharli village a pristine lucid water body emerged on the left hand side. Radiating the reflection of the sky and adjoining trees and hillock.

   Speeding through the scenic images floating on top of the vibrant reflection of the lake we wedged into a small remote village, a line of shanty huts and shacks on both sides ending at a cross road where the routes for the game rides began.

  

   Checking into our rooms at MTDC we placed our luggage and freshened up followed by tea and biscuits.

   We were informed that about the 9:00 am a tiger had strolled across the white gates of the MTDC resort, how enthralling.

   2:30pm, the green gypsy vehicle escorted us into the jungle on our first game ride. The sun mercilessly shone upon us grilling the exposed skin as the vehicle pressed in to the pure undisturbed unaltered forests.

   Three domesticated elephants chained to a few trees gazed down as time stood still for them day after day.

   We advanced into the jungles, sharply turning to the right and entering into a narrow passageway trail. Thin sharp stems and bushes vigorously scrambling in from both sides as the vehicle nailed deeper through the narrow constricting shaft of the forest.

  Ushered by a small gang of langur’s laying around resting on dry khaki covered leaves and nearby branches, their elegant dark eyes and hands radiantly posing for our lenses as some of them hoped up coursing through the trees.

   Braking at the sight of the pictorial wallpaper like ghost trees. The white skeleton trunks growing into multiple attributes with brown fluffy leaves.

   Moving ahead a young sambar rested with its limbs folded under his torso on the dry leaf mud ground.  A few meters ahead in the open expanse a male spotted dear with its antelope grazed in the dry yellow brown grass. Momentarily podding his head up at the sound of our taxing engine and then resuming to its graze.

   Our lenses distracted by the brushing sound amongst the adjacent branches, the lenses in-focusing at the pack of langurs moving about in the trees.

   After spending enough time with the sambar, spotted dear and the monkeys we drove past a machan halting in front of a small lake. A tree trunk curving into the water hosted a small adolescent crocodile resting on it. Further up the road an infantile barking deer strolled towards the vehicle crossing the road and hoping into the bushes, disappearing.

   A green bird chirped poised high up on a thin branch against the background of the blue sky to the left; a parquet. To the right a small compact brown bird; a grey eyed buzzard gripped onto the thick brown branches against the dense green leaves and brown branches.

   The vehicle climbed up the steep narrowing path bludgeoned by needle like stems, bushes and branches. The car screeched halting, whilst climbing. The driver and guided leaped out opening the bonnet, the engine broke down. Nearly ten minutes past by as the driver and guide tried to revive the green steeled beast. Another gypsy halted behind us carrying a group of foreigners. After nearly fifteen minutes of being stranded the convoy coughed back to life climbing up and out the slope on the leveled land and taxing down behind a group of three gypsy’s. We just missed a sleepy tiger that had just gotten to its feet and walked up the rock mound over to the other side. What luck!

   5:50pm, The gypsy sped towards the gate in order to make it out within the closing time. Passing a small herd of spotted deer’s; young, male and females with their heads buried in the grass chewing at it the vehicle screeched further ahead at the image of three giant mammals grazing within the distant woods; the great Indian Gaurs.

  The light getting dimmer and the clock edging to six compelled us to jerk ahead to the gate.

   Our first day in the forest ended on the top a terrace of a dhaba. Munching on onion pakodas accompanied with green chilies and onions with sugary tea.

   Abruptly waking up from our sleep to the scathing outcry of the alarm calls in the middle of the night.

Day 3, Thursday. 24^th Feb, 2011.

    5:30am, the five of us shivered out of the warmth of our rooms into the dark morning cold. After a quick sip at the sugary teas along with biscuits we hoped into the green gypsy with bottled water.

   A tiger and two cubs had passed by the main entrance gate of the safari zone, we had missed by an hour.

   Brushing through the cold misty tranquility of the forest for nearly one hour we halted at a lake. A small spot of water swirled far in sight in the midst of the platinum reflecting water. A snout sedately propelled in slow motion gradually submerging itself. A long array of hundreds of sparrow-dove like birds aligned themselves around the banks of the lake meditating in the freshness of the morning, motionless.

   Riding on for another three hours we captured many monkeys through our lenses and halted at a vivid out the world like lake. Two sambars walked on hunching down to sip at the calcium water and passed on getting out of the water and across the road hopping into the bushes.

   Just before the morning game drive came to an end we sighted an elegant eagle serpent posed on a rock facing the same lake where the crocodiles had decided to stay under water.

   We had hot samosa’s, pakodas and tea at the same dhabba and proceeded to our rooms for an afternoon nap.

   2:00pm, the vehicle rested at the gates waiting to be let in as three elephants strode out the gate with chains and cuffs around the legs.

   We strode for about four hours through the jungles, taking in the purity of the lakes, woods and aroma stopping finally at a refulgent full ripe male samba. It’s horns balanced and affixed on its carved head.

   After spending nearly twenty minutes up and close with the sambar we resumed our drive through the pristine expanse of the unfiltered jungle passing by spotted deer’s, barking deer’s and monkeys.

   We resumed to our seats on the terrace of the dhabba. Capturing the various shades of the descending sun against the wide panorama of the lake and hillock. Indulging in sweet tea and somosa’s whilst engaging the photography and ending the night by feasting on bakha and zumca, the local delicacy of the rural areas across Maharashtra.

   We retreated to our rooms with our heavy gaits off to much needed sleep.

Day 4, Friday. 25^th Feb, 2011.

   7:00am, the vehicle sped through the trail deeper into the Andhari section of the jungle. The most least trailed area. We indulged in comprehensive photography as the light penetrated through the branches and leaves simulating an eerie aura at the road ahead, streaks of light filtering through joining the mist foam.

   Riding ahead a peafowl flew above across our heads into the dense forest, emitting a strange thrill of a Jurassic kind. Further ahead bunches of peafowl and peahens clattered around on the dry leaves and some flapped and flew ahead on the trail roads.

   After spending nearly three hours in core area of the most secluded region in the forest we spiraled around heading out towards the lake. Stopping at spots to capture images of birds, from serpent eagle, kingfishers, stalks, cranes, ducks, sparrows and an array of the kind.

   Rolling beside the lake we ordered the driver to press on the brakes as a crocodile floated exposing his large snout and head out of the gleaming water.

   A few yards ahead a massive crocodile rested on the banks of the oppose to shore of the lake whilst the flocks of birds flew past and back the lake and machan.

   11:00am, our escapade came to an end. We checked out of the MTDC hotel affixing our luggage on the white van’s room.

   Motoring on for an hour through the long Tadoba Chandrapur road passing through the birds, lakes, mines and thermal power factories back to the underdeveloped array of stores and buildings. Stopping at a Rajasthani restaurant for a heavy authentic Indian meal.

   6:00pm, we waited on the Chandrapur platform with our heads craned up and laughing out hysterically at the flat screen airing bollywood music videos from the 80’s as the local commuters gathered around processing the unusual crowd going bananas.

  

Day 5, Friday. 26^th Feb, 2011

   11:30am, we arrived at Dadar and stepped out of the train with heavy legs, the added weight and the tiredness of the prolonged compactness in the bogie.

   We finished our first expedition with a delightful vegetarian meal at one of the nearby restaurants and then departed our ways at the local train station with loads of sweet and cherishable memories and most of all realizing our responsibilities towards mother nature. 


Special Thanks to one of our regular team backpacker-Mr Vishal Gupta for taking out time of his busy schedule to compile this blog. 

         

                     

Sita & Charger- The Stripes of Bandhavgarh

  

                                    Matriarch of Bandhavgarh : Sita (Poached in 1996) 

Sita tigress was most photographed tigress in the world. She was the matriarch of Bandhavgarh. She had a life span of 17 years which is considered as longer the average age of tigers. In his lifespan she manage to raise 6 litters. She had two litters from Banka, the dominant male before Charger.Her third litter was from her mating with Charger in which she delivered two male cubs. In between them, one by larger in size and known by the name of Bara Bachha and second one had slight limp in his hind leg and known by the name of Langur.Bara Bachha made his territory around Ghora Demon and Langru chose to stay with Charger & Sita. Here noticeable thing is that, Charger accepted his 4 year old lame son, denying the logic that dominant males drive away their own grownup male cubs.

In March month of 1994, Sita delivered her ill-fated fourth litter in which one cub was blind since birth and died after some time. Sita was so much distressed and disturbed by his death that for few days she wandered everywhere in search of her cub by calling her. During that period park authorities closed her area for tourists. Her another female cub later known by the name of Mohini as she was very good looking. Charger had habit of snatching the kills made by Sita but she never mind and always pleased to see Charger. In September 1996, Sita produced her fifth litter comprising one male and two females. In order to feed them properly, Sita often started trespassing in to other’s territory. She made kills in other’s domain and drag them into her territory. 

In the year 1996, Sita was 15 years old which is considered as old-age of tigers, bud she seems absolutely fit. Upto this age, she has produced 6 litters and seems fit to deliver 7th litter also. Parks closed down in month of July for next 3 months. When month of October arrived in year 1996 and parks was ready for next safari season, tiger tracking geared up. During tracking nobody could trace Sita and a peculiar silence or depression was spread in atmosphere. No trace of beloved tigress Sita ignited huge controversies in media and pressure was mounted in Forest department to investigate the missing of Sita. Strange rumors began to spread about her dis-appearance like she was shot three times in Barua Nala and died behind the rest house in terrible agony. Some blamed it a handiwork of poachers spread in local villages. Local people and Forest Department was shocked with the disappearance of Sita.

After few months, police caught some poachers and recovered a tiger skin and bones from them. The enthusiastic officer and other policemen claimed that it was skin of Sita and called up many experts from Tala to verify the fact. They hung the skin in the verandah of Manpur Police Station for viewing and thousands of people from surrounding villages turned up to see it. Believing it to be Sita’s skin, they abused poachers and poured praises on policemen. But still suspicion remains prevailing as by having a look on a shrank and decayed skin and a pile of broken bones, it was impossible to trace the identity of died tiger. General perception of Sita’s death was that she has been poached. It is often said by guides and experts that it is very hard to trace the body of any cat family member died due to natural death.

                                   About Legendary Tiger: Charger (Died in 2000) 

Before Charger, Banka was the dominant male of Charkadhara in Tala range of Bandhavgarh National Park. Banka is a hindi language word which means handsome and is use to praise the look of any male character. In a particular dawn, silence of Tala range broken with the deep throated calling of “aaungh- aaungh” . It was Banka prowl along the Aama Nala road. Suddenly, a series of resounding roars heard from up the hill jolted the jungle. Banka stopped dead in his tracks and immediately looked up. Soon he heard fast approaching footsteps, heading towards him, churning the dry leaves scattered on the ground, combined with short hideous growls. The tiger accepted the challenge and gave vent to a full throated roar, which only quickened the movements of the oncoming stranger.

Vicious looking male stranger tiger in his prime with mane like long hair fringing his face broke to cover of bamboo and fell over Banka like a thunder storm. Banka rolled over the ground with the impact of attack and lay under the stranger, who frantically tried to bite through his head and neck. Banka roared in defiance and raked the body of his rival with his fully stretched paws. Roaring sound of fighting tigers was echoing in the forest. Soon the ferocity, youth and indescribable anger of the young tiger took better of Banka, who gave up, disengaged himself from deadly grip of his rival, bleeding profusely, left the battlefield and tottered away from the onslaught.

Next day, with the sunrise, vicious tiger stepped out of jungle and lay down beside the forest road, licking his bleeding gashes and still growling at intervals. With the advancement of day, safari jeeps began arriving the forest. A ford jeep carrying party of jungle-trackers appeared around the corner where vicious male was laying. They had unknowingly come near to the new tiger following overnight pugmarks of Banka. The furious tiger raised his head and intently rushed in the direction from where the sound of the jeep was heard. He swiftly prepared himself for a charge as the sound approached nearer.

It was Rajan, sitting behind the jeep, who noticed the approaching tiger, first. Massive head, wide eyes, massive physique and aggressive posture made him realize that it was not Banka. In an excitement of tracking first tiger since morning, they drove towards him. As the jeep stopped near the tiger, he jumped up, rushed towards the jeep roaring menacingly, and almost collided with the vehicle. He growled and scratch the earth with his claws in anger. His saliva fell all over on the cloths of he occupants of the jeep, who shouted in unison with fear. Fortunately tiger wheeled back abruptly and went off into the forest. Jeep went back to Tala village and rumor was spread that Banka gone mad, Jeeps riders still couldn’t believe that Banka’s territory was penetrated by a intruder despite of getting news of seeing Banka type tiger under bush near a village, away from its territory.

Then Kuttapan, the head Mahout (person who drives elephant) decided to solve the mystery of Banka’s becoming mad. Riding over his huge tusker Gautam, he entered the high grass behind Gopalpur pond looking for Banka. Within a moment, he heard a distinct loud growl from his right, and next moment a thundering striped fury shot out from the grass and charged at elephant Gautam. Kuttapan somehow managed the elephant and rushed out of that grassland, perspiring profusely and declared that a very dangerous and short-tempered tiger had arrived in the forest. That was the most authentic confirmation about theadvent of Charger who is not just a tiger but with his mate Sita, they become celebrity all over the world for almost a decade. Charger ruled Chakradhara and adjoining territories from beginning of year 1991 to 1999.

Charger earned his name through his unusually aggressive disposition towards tourist safari jeeps and elephants. He terrorized many visitors, jeep drivers, mahaouts on countless times. Sita had first two litters from Banka and third one from Charger in which one of the cub had a slight limp in his hind leg and known by the name of Langru. He stay with Charger & Sita and they accepted him even at the age of 4 when such grownup male cubs were drived away by dominant males. Charger and Sita were very compassionate for each other. Charger often share the kills of Sita and in return defends his territory form outsider males. At the age of 16 in year 1996, Charger lost his longtime companion Sita and his real ordeal began after it. Sita’s departure lead to a tragic turning point in life of Charger. He was hungry most of the time and survived through scavenging. He wandered in search of dead animals. Old age made Charger to restrict his movement as new generation of Tigers: B1, B2 & B3 were claiming their dominance in the area. Restricted movement leads to his increased sighting in a particular region of Barua Nala. Charger could not restrict himself long in a limited territory and ventured into Rajbehra and had a conflict with B1 and both face injuries.

In June 2000, Charger was engaged in a conflict with strong B2 tiger. In this decisive battle with B2 Tiger, in which B2 wrote the last deciding page of Charger’s grand saga. A week later, Charger was found half dead, lying in a ditch close to Mardari village. To avoid any controversies and danger to villagers, the forest department drove the Charger into a cage and put him inside a chain-link enclosure at Chirhadhar. A veterinary doctor attended his wounds and Charger seemed to improve in health. Since then Charger remained in enclosure. Charger was often seen walking along the fence as he wished to roam independently in to the area once ruled by him. He felt loneliness and uncomfortable in enclosure as he spent most of the time of his life in a royal style by ruling the jungle where he was now reduced to a enclosure. It was ungrateful day of 29th September, 2000, when Charger passed away leaving his name in history. A memorial was made in a place where his body was disposed off and was known by the name of ‘Charger Point’. We can visit Charger’s Point during safari in Magadhi zone (Gate - 2). Charger lived comparatively long life and was exceptional dominant male in Bandhavgarh National Park.